Fruit trees planted in seasons other than spring are generally potted trees. These instructions apply to trees potted in a grow bag. To ensure the success of your tree, follow these step-by-step instructions or contact your local Giving Grove affiliate for zone-specific information. If you would like more information like this sent straight to your inbox, consider subscribing to The Serving, The Giving Grove’s quarterly newsletter.


Below are detailed instructions. If you would prefer to watch a tutorial on video, click here.

  1. Determine a location.

An ideal location should have:

  • 8+ hours of sun

  • Well-drained soil (not in standing water)

  • Sloped for good airflow

  • Plan for 15’ wide and 15’ tall for each tree

2. Perform a soil test.

a) Gather samples 3-6” deep around the planting area.

b) Send sample to the local extension office.

  • Results will take a couple of weeks and will tell organic material, pH, potassium, phosphorus, & more.

  • See site/soil amendments below for how to amend the soil.

A gentle slope is ideal for growing fruit trees due to the air flow.

A gentle slope is ideal for growing fruit trees due to the air flow.

3. Call 811 before you dig.

  • It can take up to 5 business days.

  • The field locator will flag underground utility lines.

4. Gather tools and soil amendments.

  • Shovels: Sharpshooter, Sod Shovel, and Round Point Shovel

  • Rake

  • 5 gallon bucket

  • Mycorrhizal Fungus

  • Soil Sulfur (if soil sample indicates)

  • Phosphorus, aka bone meal (if soil sample indicates)

5. Sod Removal

a) Start by marking a 30” diameter circle on the ground.

b) Use the sod shovel to cut 2” deep around the edge of the circle.

c) Cut the circle into pieces using the sod shovel (like a pizza).

d) Remove the sod pieces and put them into a pile.

Specific shovels make digging a hole easier.

Specific shovels make digging a hole easier.

Volunteers dig hole for a new fruit tree.

Volunteers dig hole for a new fruit tree.

6. Dig a barrel-shaped hole.

a) Start in the center of the hole to avoid glassing along the edge of the hole.

b) Remove the soil using the round point shovel and make a pile of soil separate from the pile of sod.

c) Once at the edge of the hole, begin to dig perpendicular to the edge to avoid glassing. The edge of the hole should be rough in texture and barrel-shaped (not V-shaped).

d) Remove urbanite (pieces of foundation, plumbing, etc.) and place it in a separate pile.

e) Add soil amendments recommended by your local Giving Grove partner.

7. Place the tree in the hole.

a) Place the tree in its bag on an upside-down 5-gallon bucket. Gently fold the edge of the bag to the outside and pull straight down until the sides of the tree’s root ball and soil are exposed.

b) With the bag pulled down, two people must lift the tree while another person holds the bottom of the bag. Set the tree gently into the middle of the hole. If the roots are attached to the bottom of the bag, gently spin the tree while holding the bottom of the bag to release the roots.

8. Replace sod and lay mulch.

a) All sod removed earlier can now be cut and placed green side down around the hole's outer edge. Do NOT use Bermuda grass sod. Throw Bermuda grass away!

b) Add a ring of mulch at least 15” radius from the trunk 3-4” deep. Make sure mulch is not mounded against the trunk. A donut shape is recommended.

9. Water

  • A newly planted tree will require 5-10 gallons of water. Water should be split into 2 applications to allow all the water to soak in slowly.

  • To test how long you should water each tree, fill a 5-gallon bucket with a gentle shower spray of water, counting the time it takes to fill the bucket. This is how long it will take to water 5 gallons per tree.

Volunteers remove tree and root ball from grow bag.

Volunteers remove tree and root ball from grow bag.

10. Tree Support

Bamboo & Tie-Tape

a) Place bamboo firmly in the soil next to the tree.

b) Tie bamboo to the tree in 2-3 locations, including one on the rootstock.

c) Check every 6 months and remove or adjust the tape if it’s too tight.

T-Posts & Wire (use with dwarfing rootstock tree and in high wind, high use areas):

a) Drive posts on east and west sides of the tree on the mulch ring's outside edge.

b) Cut 2 pieces of wire twice the length of the distance from the stake to the tree.

c) Run the wire through an old piece of hose and place the wire/hose around the tree's trunk.

d) With a helper on the other side, loosely tighten the wire, making certain the tree is straight and plumb. Do not over-tighten the wires. Check wires often and remove them after 2-3 years.

Use t-posts to stabilize trees.  Wire caging can also protect from deer and other wildlife.

Use t-posts to stabilize trees. Wire caging can also protect from deer and other wildlife.

Video Tutorial:

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